![]() Trim the end of the sheet so it goes over the top of the drain. Pull it taut and then carefully staple it every 12-16 inches into the joist, just on one side. ![]() This is much more easily done with two people, but not impossible to do alone. Then roll out the sheeting until it reaches the end where your drain is. Take the end of the black plastic sheet and tuck it under the metal piece that should be installed next to the house, staple in place. Step on joists or slide deck boards to the joist closest to the spot you’re working on so you can kneel on them (which is what we did.) Step 3: Install the GuttersĪfter a little trial and error, we figured out that the best way to install the gutters was to expose the entire length of the deck joists (you lay the gutter in between joists) to create a nice smooth gutter. Then remove the rest of the boards to install the gutters. Suggestion: Remove a few boards from the outside edge to install drains. We then tried to start putting in the plastic sheeting you use for the gutters, but not being able to lay it completely the length of the deck made for a very uneven gutter. We first removed about five deck boards starting from the outer edge so we could kneel on the deck to install the drains. Seems like we’re always in the middle of 500 projects! Just ignore how bad my backyard looks right now. We then put a line of caulk on the seam between the front wood beam and the fascia board. To install the drains, you cut a little half-moon shape out of each drain for the gutter to rest in. This helped a lot when putting the deck back together since there were holes drilled for the railing in certain boards. One great idea my husband had was to put a piece of tape on each board to label exactly where it was. So don’t believe everything you hear, even if it’s from someone who is “professional.”’ We had to go through a few different bits, but we got the boards off, no problem. Wrong! We bought some good, strong star bits for our impact driver and used them to remove the boards. ![]() The deck company who built our deck said that removing the deck boards would be next to impossible and you’d most likely break the boards in the process. It wasn’t too hard for us to remove the railing and deck boards. Highly recommend this step if you have livable space underneath, and even if you don’t, at least use the tape on the joists to protect it from water damage. So obviously it is ideal to waterproof a deck before you add the decking on top, if you are building it new. So if you are doing this to a pre-existing deck, you will have to remove any/all railing and deck boards to reach the joists underneath. ![]() Unlike competitive products – which make use of “under joist” technology – Trex RainEscape is installed above the joists, protecting the joists and beams from moisture, water damage and deterioration and ensuring the structural integrity of the deck. It’s all pretty simple to use and high quality stuff. Whether you just want to protect the wood by taping over the joists or make it so water doesn’t seep through the deck, they have the whole shebang. It’s honestly the best one out there and they include everything you need to protect your deck from moisture, deterioration and water damage. We partnered with Trex RainEscape on this project, the #1 deck drainage system. This is a fairly straightforward project, and while I wouldn’t call it simple, it’s a DIY project that can be done in a weekend. Since we want to be able to use the hot tub year round, we decided it would be optimal to add a drainage system to the deck for protection from weather in the space underneath and also to extend the life of the deck since it protects the substructure from water. We splurged on a hot tub this year and put it under our main floor deck. We have a deck that has a usable space underneath.
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